Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Epic, part 2

I think I've put off posting about Jerusalem because there's just so much to say, and frankly it's kind of hard to put into words how incredible it was. On Thursday we had a guided tour through the old city with a hilarious tour guide named Ron. As we all know, Jerusalem is not only a tremendously important city for the Jewish religion, but for the Muslim and Christian religions as well. Although we're here through a Jewish organization, Ron took us to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre as our first stop. It seemed like a few people in the group were less than enthusiastic about this, but as both an art history and theology enthusiast (read: nerd), I was thrilled. Traditionally/allegedly, the church's two domes provide shelter to two of the most important sites in the Christian religion; Golgatha, where Jesus was crucified, and the Sepulchre, where Jesus was buried for three days before he was resurrected. Can you even imagine seeing these things with your own eyes? It's crazy enough walking through an ancient city where not only Jesus walked, but so much history has taken place. Now I've actually seen the sites where some of the most important events in the history of religion have taken place (disclaimer: this is only my personal opinion)! No matter what religion you subscribe to, I find it truly humbling to be in the presence of something so significant.

After the church we took an hour to wander around the Arab quarter and find some lunch. Then we moved on to the Jewish Quarter and visited the room where the last supper took place, and then the tomb of King David. When explaining these places to us, Ron uses the word "traditionally" as a more gentle way of saying "allegedly" or "supposedly". There is really no way to prove that these sites are what people claim them to be, but there are a lot of facts to support the notion that King David or someone very highly regarded from the same time period was buried at the site of King David's tomb, or that the famous (alleged) Passover dinner known as the "Last Supper" did in fact occur in the room that we visited. Regardless, these sites were very cool to see.

After another hour break to wander around the Jewish Quarter (I bought some fabulous hand-made jewelry from a place called Hadaya), we made our way to the Kotel, or the Western Wall. For those of you who might not know about the significance of the Wall, here's an excerpt from the brochure that I grabbed after going through security:
The Western Wall has been the center of Jewish yearning and memory for more than 2,000 years. The only fragment of the Great Temple to survive the Roman destruction, the Divine Presence has never departed from the Western Wall. Built to support the western side of the Temple Mount, it is known as the Western Wall (in Hebrew, HaKotel HaMa'aravi), it is the most sacred structure of the Jewish people. Its ancient stones stand testimony to a glorious Jewish past, proud heritage and an extraordinary national rebirth. It is a focus of Jewish longing and a prayer for redemption and renewal.

All stand equal in front of the Wall. Jews sense their Judaism, often for the first time. Touching its stones links us with our nation and heritage, with the Jewish people and our long, turbulent history. Standing at the Wall, perspectives, thoughts and feelings crystallize and the insignificant fades away. The Wall has withstood time, it was witnessed war and peace, destruction and revival. For generations, it has absorbed the prayers and yearnings of those near and far. Today, it is the most visited site in Israel. To feel, to understand, to experience true awe, come to Jerusalem, come to the Western Wall.
To visit the Kotel is a truly spiritual experience. The wall holds a kind of magic that you can only comprehend once you have been there. Even to stand before the wall doesn't compare to actually touching the stones while you pray. Those who know me know that I'm not a religious person, but at the Kotel I felt an overwhelming sense of reverence, a sense of the divine, a sense of comfort and pride; a deep connection with my Jewish roots. The Kotel is often referred to as the Wailing Wall, and that's because it's common to be completely overcome with emotion at the site. Although I've been there before, it's hard not to shed a tear when standing before such a powerful symbol of the past, present, and future of the Jewish people.
A picture of the Wall and plaza with the Dome of the Rock in the background. Taken from a random lookout point that we stumbled upon.
Me at the lookout point

It's tradition to leave a note at the Wall, communicating your thoughts, prayers or wishes to God.
My note, with red string for good luck.
I digress. The group left on Thursday, but Sarah and I decided to stick around for the full Jerusalem experience. After checking into our hotel and having dinner at the (alleged) best hummus place in town, we ventured back into the old city with Boris. We managed to find a rooftop that we had visited earlier that day, and proceeded to sip cocktails while overlooking Jerusalem at night. As if this wasn't already breathtaking enough, there was a meteor shower. You can't make this stuff up. It was like a scene out of a movie. The three of us, taking in the view with a meteor shower overhead. In a word, spectacular.

Sarah and I spent Friday wandering through the old city. There are four quarters: the Jewish quarter, the Christian quarter, the Arabic quarter, and the Armenian quarter. While the Jewish quarter shut down early for Shabbat, we were left with much to explore, and buy. We decided to end the day at the Kotel so that we could be there for sundown/the beginning of Shabbat, and then enjoyed a nice a sushi dinner in honor of the holiday. Very Kosher indeed.
Some photos from our day:


Jerusalem was incredible; there is just nothing like it in the world. It means so much to so many, and being there, you can really sense how special it is. My weekend in Jerusalem further solidified what I already knew: I am so blessed to have the opportunity to spend five months in such an extraordinary place.

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